A Complete Guide to Seasonal Lawn Maintenance
In short, lawn aeration is best performed in the Spring and Fall as it serves to reduce compaction of the existing turf and provides dirt contact for lawn over-seeding. Depending on region, warm climate grasses fare better from Spring aeration whereas cool climate grasses prefer late Summer/Fall aeration. In Pittsburgh, most grass varieties are cool climate loving.
Core aeration should be part of any regular turf maintenance program if you are seeking a lush healthy lawn. Regardless of the condition of the current turf, even only annual core aeration can go a long way at enhancing grass root growth, which will leave your lawn nice and green during periods of drought in late Summer. Many homeowners opt to have their lawns aerated in either the Fall, Spring, or both.
Why is Lawn Aeration Beneficial?
Lawn aeration improves turf quality by reducing soil compaction. People walking, dogs playing, vehicles, lawn mowers, and everything else that moves across the lawn causes compaction. This compaction prevents the grass roots from getting the air, water and nutrients needed for proper growth. It takes very little compaction to restrict flow of nutrients, even a quarter inch of compacted soil can block the natural flow.
Aeration reduces compaction by removing plugs or cores of turf that are left on the surface for decomposition as a mild top dressing. These plugs will break down over the period of a week or so and provide a layer of non-compacted soil. In addition, the holes left in the lawn allow water and oxygen to come in contact with the root system. Now that roots have available nutrients they are primed for growth, which in turn will create a much more resilient lawn, less likely to burn out in droughts or other stressful conditions. Often times, a single aeration service can help poor lawns recover to beautiful conditions.
Is My Lawn Compacted?
Not sure if your turf is compacted? Here are some easy metrics to use:
After a rain does water puddle on the surface of the lawn?
Are you fighting crab-grass that crowds out the attractive turf?
With moderate force are you not able to insert a screwdriver into the turf?
If you answered yes to any of these questions, then chances are your lawn is compacted and could benefit from core aeration.
Is All Aeration The Same?
There are many different forms of aeration:
Spike Aerators use tines to poke holes into the turf. This type of aeration is least effective, as it tends to compact dirt surrounding the impact area.
Slicing Aerators use circular blades to score the lawn, providing germination sites and allowing air and nutrients to reach the root zone. This type of aeration is OK, but not great.
Core Aerators use special hollow tines that remove plugs of lawn and deposit. them on the surface. This type of aeration is preferred by professionals and provides the most benefit. The picture above is a core aerator.
At Verardi Landscapes we only use core aeration as we have found that it produces the best results by far. We also find that power-raking for thatch removal, followed by core aeration and over-seeding is the ultimate combination for awe-worthy lawns.
Best Time To Aerate In Pittsburgh? Do I Need To Overseed or Rake?
Timing for aeration is important. The current turf condition largely determines the best time to aerate a lawn. Your lawn probably falls into one of these three descriptions:
1. My lawn is very healthy. It is lush and green all season long.
Perfect, in order to maintain this condition it is best to aerate in both the spring and fall. Lawns like these can get away with annual core aeration as the soil is not heavily compacted. Over-seeding may be conducted to keep the lawn as full as possible.
2. My lawn is average. I have patches of dormant grass and some shaded dead spots.
Lawns like these benefit tremendously from core aeration. Often times lawns like this have a heavy buildup of thatch, so power-raking may first be needed. After thatch has been removed, core aeration should be performed followed by over-seeding. The removal of thatch will increase drainage and oxygen exposure at the surface of the lawn, while the core aeration will allow seed to contact virgin dirt for germination.
3. My lawn is in poor condition. I have lots of weeds and large patches of brown turf.
If your lawn is like this it will need more extensive work, but core aeration proves to be an integral part of the transformation. Aggressive power raking should be performed to scrape the surface of the lawn of all thatch/weeds/dead growth. Core aeration should be conducted along with over-seeding. For lawns in poor shape, a final top dressing consisting of mushroom manure, peat, and sand should be laid at about 1/4 inch thick across the lawn to provide nutrient rich soil for growth and proper drainage.
If your turf is in good shape and you live in Pennsylvania, where most grass varieties are cool climate, annual Fall aeration will often suffice. For lawns in poorer condition, especially lawns needing significant re-seeding, aerating in both the Fall and Spring will bring the turf to impeccable condition more quickly.
How Do I Overseed My Lawn in Pittsburgh?
Over-seeding is typically performed in the Spring and Fall, and is most effective post core aeration. Over-seeding serves to improve the appearance and density of a lawn by adding more grass seed to an existing lawn. This process without core aeration is often wasteful, as seeds needs dirt contact for proper germination. The holes created by core aeration also help the seed maintain moisture and shade it from heavy sun. Over-seeding is beneficial for homeowners suffering from drought related stress, insect damage or disease, as well as general patchiness and lack of color.
What Grass Seed Should I Use in Pittsburgh?
Determining the best grass seed to use is not very hard, and is largely a function of whether you are trying to put in a new lawn, or fill in bare/dormant spots. Specific varieties of grass are suited for filling patchiness in an existing lawn, while others cater themselves to true over-seeding or whole lawn installation.
For lawns suffering from dead patches or extreme dormancy following drought like Summer conditions, perennial ryegrass is the best seed for the job. Due to its very fast germination time, perennial ryegrass can accept light traffic in eight to ten weeks. In comparison, Kentucky bluegrass takes many months to establish enough to withstand traffic. Since the variety matures so quickly, any spots that were re-seeded in the Fall or Spring have time to grow and thicken before any stressful conditions present, whether it be hot weather from the Summer or cold from the impending Winter months. Perennial ryegrass presents as a fine-textured dark green species, and is not to be confused with annual ryegrass. Annual ryegrass is a commonly sold grass seed that is undesirable due to its course appearance and feel, as well as its propensity to thin out over time. One other notable mention to avoid when purchasing seed is a specific strain of perennial rye known as "Lynn" rye, as it is known to fade over time leaving a rather lackluster turf.
If your lawn is plagued by shade, consider fine fescue. Although shade is typically the enemy of grass, fine fescue can do very well with only three hours of sunlight a day. Often times if trees are causing the shade, the angle at which the sun rises may give these fescue varieties enough sunlight to grow before the overhead tree foliage creates a dappled sunlight. Chewing's, Red, and Creeping Red Fescues are all suitable for these shaded areas provided the soil is well draining. If you have aerated and top dressed the lawn prior to seeding, drainage should not be an issue. If your lawn is so heavily shaded that even fescue varieties will not take, consider adding a ground cover such as myrtle or pachysandra as an attractive and low maintenance alternative to turf.
If you are trying to establish a new lawn entirely or over-seeding an entire lawn, often times the best solution is to use a mix of grass species. Combining multiple species makes the lawn resilient and able to thrive under a multitude of conditions. For sunny lawns with average shade, a Penn State Mix consisting of roughly 60-80 percent Kentucky bluegrass, 30-40 percent fine fescue, and 10-20 percent perennial ryegrass will perform very well. The Kentucky bluegrass will dominate sunny areas, while the fine fescue will spread over shaded areas. If the lawn is more shaded than sunny, a Penn State Shade mix would be the best option, as it has more fine fescue 50-60 percent than Kentucky bluegrass 30-40 percent with the remainder being perennial rye.
Planting lawns is hard work, so make sure to do your homework when purchasing seed. Look for the specific strains we discussed and pair them with your current lawn condition and sun/shade ratio. Seed manufacturers should test for germination and these results should be published on the label. Look for seed/seed mix with a minimum of 80% guaranteed germination. Most seed products will also specify the maximum amount of weed seed that can be present in the product. Look for products with less than 1% weed seed for best results, especially when seeding exposed dirt or heavily stressed portions of turf.
Be sure to store seed in a dry place that will not experience temperatures greater than 90 F. Realize that concrete floors will produce moisture from condensation, so keep seed stored on shelves or on top of wood to prevent any wetting that can cause decomposition.
How Much Seed Should I Overseed With?
The easiest way to determine how much seed to use when over-seeding a lawn is to look at the label on the seed product. Many times the seed manufacturer will specify the rate at which a drop/broadcast spreader should be set to properly sew the seeds. These rates can be adjusted based on the thickness of your lawn, with thicker lawns needing less seed than less established ones. As a general rule of thumb, if you are over-seeding a regular basis then less seed will be needed. Below are some good guidelines for how much seed to start with when over-seeding:
For thick lawns, use 2-4 lbs of seed per 1,000 sq. ft of turf.
For dirt areas or dormant patches, use 4-8 lbs of seed per 1,000 sq. ft of turf.
For brand new lawns, use 8-12 lbs of seed per 1,000 sq. ft of turf.
Be warned, more seed does not mean better results. Thick vibrant lawns are created over a period of time as the seedlings grow and mature, and require patience. Over-zealous application of seed will just lead to eventual plant crowding at maturity and ultimately an undesirable outcome.
Post Core Aeration Lawn Treatment
What Should I Do After My Lawn Has Been Aerated?
Post aeration treatment is very important. Leave all the plugs to dry as they will eventually break down with rain and mowing, adding beneficial soil and organic matter to the surface of your lawn. If you chose to over-seed in addition to aeration, be sure to water heavily (about 1 inch of water) shortly after, and every few days post germination for best success.
Should I Fertilize After Aeration?
Post aeration is a great time to fertilize your lawn as it aids in the ability for the soil to take up nutrients. If you chose to over-seed be sure to fertilize with a designated fertilizer, and do not add any weed preventing/killing preparations unless they specifically state they will not impair germination of new grass.
If you are fertilizing after over-seeding it is best to use a fertilizer that is developed to enhance germination and seedling growth, these are called starter fertilizers. Lawns planted in the Spring and Fall post aeration benefit tremendously from the boost in nutrient concentrations while root systems are developing, allowing for seedlings to mature more quickly before the hot Summer or cold Winter months come. Starter fertilizers are rich in the nutrients Nitrogen (N) and Phosphorus (P). Looking for a fertilizer rich in phosphorus is the most important as phosphorus is not mobile in the soil and the small root structures of the seedlings often cannot forge for the phosphorus. Supplementing with exogenous phosphorus via a starter fertilizer is the most efficient way of boosting root development when growing a lawn from seed.
Do I Need To Top Dress My Lawn?
Once a lawn has been aerated, you may consider top dressing the lawn. Top dressing refers to the addition of new soil over the lawn, typically spread at roughly a quarter-inch thick. This soil is made up of beneficial microorganisms that generate phytonutrients the lawn is able to use to grow and thrive. The best soil to use for top dressing differs based on the current condition of the soil, and how well it drains. If you have clay or shale like soils. consider a mixture of sand and mushroom compost as top dressing, as over time this will amend the soil under the lawn and improve drainage. If you already have good soil, topsoil or mushroom compost alone will suffice. Selecting and applying the correct top dressing will reduce the amount of fertilizer that will need to be applied to the lawn, saving you money in the long term. Proper top dressing can also reduce thatch and various lawn diseases. The following are some examples of top dressing options, and the benefits of each:
Topsoil
This is the same dirt that contractors will bring in when planting a new lawn to begin with. This top soil has been screened and will not have any clumps. This soil is nutrient rich and has a very loose structure which can help with drainage. Top soil used to top dress will ideally be as close as possible to the topsoil that is currently present. If you core aerated the lawn, take a few plugs and crush the dirt off of them, this is what the topsoil you are top dressing with should look like.
Compost
Compost is king by many regards, as it is the most nutrient rich top dressing. Compost can help to balance soil pH and may help to prevent thatch buildup and various lawn diseases. Compost is the most expensive option for top dressing, so do not expect a quality compost to be cheap.
Sand
Those of you with heavy clay and shale should consider using sand to top dress. Sand drains better than any of the other top dressing mediums discussed, and can drastically change soil composition for the better after aeration. If you decide to use sand alone or as part of a mixture, look for "masonry" sand. Masonry sand is a superior sand product because it will not have any weeds or debris and can be fed out of a spreader very easily for an even application. If masonry sand is not available at your local landscape supply, highway sand can be substituted, but it often contains extra undesirable material.
How Often Do I Need To Water My Lawn in Pittsburgh?
Proper watering is crucial for lawn growth and appearance. The following are some quick metrics to use if you are confused about how much and when to water your lawn:
Most lawns need 1.5 inches of water per week, even in colder months.
Most people find it tough to keep track of how much rain has taken place over a given week, which is why purchasing a rain gauge can be very useful. Take note that even in cooler weather, watering is still needed. Lawns get stressed in the Fall and Winter months and making sure they are watered consistently is one way to reduce turf death and disease. As a general rule, lawns prefer a thorough soaking 2-3 times per week as compared to an abbreviated watering session every day.
How long should I water to get about one inch of accumulation?
Unfortunately this is not a one fits all answer as this is a function of many things like water pressure and the type of sprinkler being used. The best way to determine this is with a rain gauge placed in the area your sprinkler is wetting. Once you know approximately how much water a section of lawn is getting per hour, you can determine how long you must water to reach 1.5 inches per week. Split the 1.5 inches of total water per week into three separate watering events, each giving the lawn about 0.5 inches of water, and space them out during the week.
How often should I water my lawn?
Watering a lawn too often can cause shallow root development. The reason for this is that the lawn does not need to develop a deep root system to gather water and nutrients from within the soil because there is an abundance at the surface. To encourage deep root growth, it is best to split watering into 2-3 thorough sessions per week. Watering in this fashion will make the lawn much stronger and resistant to drought.
What time of day is best to water my lawn?
In an ideal world, you do not want your lawn to remain wet after watering for an extended period of time. As such, first thing in the morning is the best time to water a lawn, as the lawn as the rest of the day and sunshine to dry the surface. Watering at night will allow for overnight soaking of the lawn, which can cause fungal growths and other disease. Watering first thing in the morning is also cheaper due to a reduction in evaporative losses because mornings are often cooler. Realize that if watering first thing in the morning is not possible, watering later in the day is better than not watering at all.
How do I know that I have watered my lawn enough?
The discussed 1.5 inches of water per week is a very general rule of thumb and may vary based on temperatures and soil condition. In Pennsylvania soil tends to be a combination of clay and sand, often referred to as loam. This sort of soil does a good job at retaining moisture while still providing drainage. If you have been watering the 1.5 inches per week, try to insert a 6 inch screwdriver into your lawn. If it takes a lot of effort to press the screwdriver into the earth, you likely need to increase the amount you are watering. Another point worth noting is that high winds will cause a rapid loss of moisture from blowing over a lawn and may warrant extra watering.
If it is hot outside should I water my lawn more?
To prevent stress from drought, you may need to water more heavily during the summer months. This is especially true if you have a lawn compromised largely of a tall fescue. If temperatures stay above 90F for an extended period, it is not a bad idea to cool the lawn off with brief soakings on a daily basis. Raising the height at which you mow the lawn is another way to try to keep the lawn cool and less exposed to sunlight.
Why are spots of my lawn still brown despite religious watering?
Water may not be your problem. There are a plethora of other factors that may be causing this including fungus, a problem underneath the soil, or certain insects. If you are experiencing issues like this feel free to give Verardi Landscapes a call to come and figure it out to get your lawn in great shape.
Professional or DIY for Lawn Aeration in Wexford?
If you are contemplating whether to hire a professional to complete aeration services on your lawn here are some things to consider:
Why DIY Is Great:
If you have the machine available, doing it yourself can save you a few bucks. Operating an aerator is a very physically demanding task as the machines are very heavy, so it can be great exercise if you enjoy those sorts of activities.
Why Hiring An Aeration Professional Is Easier:
No need to invest in machines that cost thousands or rent a machine for $100/day and haul it home. No subjecting yourself to potentially unpleasant physical labor. No time that could be spent with family and friends wasted. Professionals will prep the lawn for aeration to get the best results and are knowledgable about post-aeration over-seeding and fertilization techniques.
Like everything in life, there are pros and cons to hiring a professional. We find that by the time you acquire the right equipment and perform the labor you will spend a very similar amount of money aerating yourself as hiring a professional. If you do not have the time to invest in lawn aeration, de-thatching, fertilization, or over-seeding but recognize the benefits, contact Verardi Landscapes so you can have the best looking lawn on the block!
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